Burgundy Wine Tasting 2004
Set 1 - Chablis

We began with three white wines, along with a butternut squash and lobster risotto with sage butter.

Antoine talked about the rich vintage problems in the Chablis region, where the winemakers had to pick at very high levels of acidity. This gave them a dilemma in vinifying the grapes. Adding full malolactic fermentation would create wines that were too heavy for the style - but not running through full malolactic fermentation would end up with wines that were not in balance. Their solution was to create a partial blend of 60% ML for all 2002 wines.

When they talk about "old vines" in Chablis, there are actually still vines from the 1920s that are producing well now. Antoine felt the "expression fo terroir comes best from old vines - the elegance of minerality. It's not the most powerful wine we have - but it becomes the most elegant wine." The clay and limestone soil give a special expression to these Chardonnay grapes, and they can age for 5-10 years into an impressive, flavorful wine.

Interestingly, not only the climate but the social setup affects how well a harvest goes. Antoine was happy that this year had a late harvest, on Sept 28th. It meant that all the workers had come back from vacation, and the harvest went smoothly!

Domaine Jean-Jacques Vincent Pouilly-Fuisse 2002
This white was smooth, light and juicy, with a medium creaminess of tart grapefruit and a long finish. Its gentle flavors went wonderfully with the risotto.

Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis 1er Cru Montmains 2002
Lovely floral nose, with smooth creamy flavors of pear with a mineral undertone. The wine was crisp and fresh. A hint of spice added to the nice finish.

Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru 2000
This was the lighter of the three wines, with a mild, chalky flavor and gentle citrus. Especially with the food, you got a bright citrus flavor with a hint of minerality. The mouthfeel was juicy and gentle, with a nice finish.

The risotto and squash went wonderfully with these wines, not overwhelming them at all, but providing a gentle flavor to complement the elegance.

Set 2 - Pommard, Beaune
Set 3 - Four More

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